Day 3: Of Lunch Boxes and Altitude Sickness

Awaken by our alarms at 5.00a.m., we took a rejuvenating shower just because we knew we weren't going to have the chance to up at Laban Rata Resthouse (3,270 metres). Our wonderful tour organisers, HK Lee and Adeline from One Tour and Adventure (1tourandadventure@gmail.com) picked us up from Kinabalu Daya Hotel itself and departed for Kinabalu National Park to get us registered before trekking. During the journey, HK tested my history knowledge on the derivation of the name Kinabalu. All I remembered from Malaysian History classes was that the name was extracted from the Kadazan Dusun word, Aki Nabalu, which when translated means 'the place of the dead'. The indigenous people of the Kadazan Dusun mostly practised animism, before they embraced Catholicism, and thus believed that non-human, non-living entities embodied spirit and life-principles. As such, words were passed on from one generation to the next that spirits of the dead would leave for Mount Kinabalu hence making it a revered place of the deceased.

We had wonderful sceneries along the way, with the route dotted with numerous small local churches - two viewpoints deserving mention are
(i) Poropok Viewpoint

(ii) Pekan Nabalu

If you're planning on renting a car and driving along this route, make full use of the liberty you've paid for and stop, not just to enjoy the view but also the lifestyle of small mountain village dwellers, what with their morning markets and small-scale sundry shops!

Despite stopping for between 15 and 20 minutes at Pekan Nabalu, it still only took us 2 hours to arrive in Mesilau Nature Resort to embark on the Summit Trail. We were told by our tour organiser that the Mesilau trail offers better sights and easier routes, despite being about 1-1.5 km longer than that of the train from the Timpohon Gate. To be honest, I didn't think the trail was any easier but the Mesilau trail unequivocally was more pleasing to the eye. The Timpohon trail officially starts at 1866m, from where it's an 8.72 km walk to the summit. Being the cheaters we are, the Mesilau Nature Resort is at a slightly higher altitude of 2000ish metres, but were no closer as the route was still about 9km long. 

You will be advised to leave no later than 9 a.m. from the Mesilau Nature Resort as it takes an average of 6-7 hours to arrive at the Laban Rata Resthouse which is about 6 km away. We left slightly later than 9 a.m. due to some miscommunication between HK and the Park authority and strolled along with our lovely and wonderfully helpful guide, Lerry. As Lerry enlightened us with the Latin names of Malaysia's extensive flora and fauna, we encountered an injured snake, which according to Lerry, is poisonous. My friend and I obviously did what any ordinary person in their right mind would do - pace away as discreetly as possible. Unfortunately, Lerry didn't see eye to eye with us on that and decided to meddle around with the snake, not with the intention to hurt it of course, but rather to probe it to find shelter.

I must admit that this ascend of approximately 1300m in 6 km was one that left me gasping for air (despite believing and being convinced by my friend that I was relatively fit, physically). Unlike my friend who managed to overcome his slight altitude sickness in the 1st kilometre, I struggled with the lightheadedness and fatigue up to the extent of losing my balance, which has never happened in any hiking excursion I've participated in, nor in my week-long trip to Tibet last year. 

The selective onset of acute mountain sickness in different individuals independent of physical fitness does urge me to ponder on the factors predisposing one to its signs and symptoms. As most diseases and illnesses with individual susceptibility, altitude sickness is also believed to depend on genetics, although specific genes are yet to be identified. This may be preliminary evidence for a major gene involved in enhancing oxygen transport at higher-than-usual altitudes, further supporting a statistical study conducted on native Tibet population demonstrating a key gene in influencing %O2 of arterial haemoglobin. In addition, this is a mark of ongoing human evolution and adaptation, which a researcher further extrapolated about a possible maternal KIR and fetal HLA haplotype combination favoured by adapting to a high-altitude environment. 

Nevertheless, we persevered, motivated by the thought of buffet dinner at the resthouse to compensate for the almost miserable, though diet-fulfilling lunchbox provided by the Kinabalu National Park which included two bananas, two hard-boiled eggs and numerous sandwiches (cheese and tomato as well as tuna/lettuce) and a bottle of water. We immediately went to bed after finishing dinner after being instructed by Lerry to be ready by 2 a.m. for the 2.7km hike to Low's Peak, the summit. 

A few points before closing this entry. I deem it useful to have known what to bring along for our hike hence shall include a list of items that have been categorised into essential and non-essential but useful for those interested in climbing the mountain in the near future.

Essential:

(i) Hiking (DUH, or running shoes if you don't have proper hiking shoes)

(ii) Headlamp (Chargeable, if not, with spare batteries)

(iii) Gloves (as they would be useful not just in keeping you warm but also to prevent the consequences of grabbing the ropes too tightly whilst hiking to the summit)

(iv) Wool or Fleece Hat

(v) I would personally recommend thermal tops, but if not, just bring a jumper and accompany it with an external layer of waterproof/rain jacket

(vi) Wool Socks, perhaps? (my friend found it very useful bringing his football socks)

-Also include mosquito repellent for the first half of your hike, unless you're in long sleeves and trousers (which I strongly recommend). As tempting as it is, shorts is a bad idea especially at the summit when windchills could bring the temperature close to zero. 

Useful

(i) Extra food/snacks such as energy/protein bars and a bottle of water (however, do not fret if you don't wish to carry the weight. You can refill your bottles at the resthouse, and if necessary, your guides will be more than willing to assist you with your backpack)

(ii) Pack cover (for temperamental weather)

(iii) Earplugs for dorms (though it won't be too noisy since everyone would be exhausted and asleep very promptly)

(iv) Medication (refer to next section)

Medication

The usual paracetamol and anti-diarrhoea will not suffice. In case of acute mountain sickness, equip yourselves with acetazolamide (diamox) which can come in handy when breathlessness kicks in and also to ease the lightheadedness. For it to take effect, you should begin consuming acetazolamide two days before you are subjected to high altitude. Ask the pharmacist for the appropriate dosage. For those interested: 

Acetazolamide is a carbonic anhydrase inhibitor and interferes with the reabsorption of bicarbonate in the kidney, hence acidifying blood. This will help overcome respiratory alkalosis as a result of hyperventilation in areas of low partial pressure of oxygen. This will subsequently stimulate increased breathing rate, which really is what you need.

Also bring along with you some NSAIDs such as ibuprofen which can help relieve the peripheral oedema but not solve the cause. If necessary, also have steroids (dexamethasone) and nifedipine (calcium channel blocker, thus a blood vessel dilator) to ease the oedema/pulmonary oedema. Diuretics such as frusemide would also help with possible pulmonary oedema.

Despite having these medication with you, bear in mind that the best management for altitude sickness is to descend. So, take note of the following symptoms of onset of altitude sickness and don't insist on hiking to higher altitudes. The symptoms include:

• Lack of appetite, nausea, or vomiting
• Fatigue or weakness
• Dizziness or lightheadedness
• Insomnia
• Pins and needles
• Shortness of breath upon exertion
• Nosebleed
• Persistent rapid pulse
• Drowsiness
• General malaise
• Peripheral edema (swelling of hands, feet, and face).
• Diarrhea

(extracted from Wikipaedia)

So that marks the end of our first day up Mount Kinabalu!

Day 2: For the love of water sports

The Tunku Abdul Rahman Park is a collection of  five islands just a stone’s throw from the waterfront – and I must add that these islands still conserve the healthy corals and tropical fish. These five islands are Gaya, Manukan, Mamutik, Sulug and Sapi. Pulau Gaya, by far the largest island of the five with an area of 15 sq km does not boast of its snorkelling wonders but is attractive from a different perspective – that of water villages and its undisturbed tropical forest. Normal boats that service Mamutik, Manukan and Sapi do not travel to this island, so the only way to get to this island is via a chartered boat, or possibly through making reservations with the resort there, Gayana Island Resort, with units from RM500 per night.

Snorkelling enthusiasts would target Mamutik and Sapi for the lovely coral gardens, but the setback is the more limited selection of water sports available due to its size. As my friend wasn’t too keen on swimming against those waves, I decided to introduce him to some water sports at the claw-shaped Manukan island. Its long white-sand beach meant a greater population of tourists and accumulation of trash brought in by the waves. And also less bargaining power for the water sports, but hey, the marginal utility gained from these activities made up for it. With much deliberation and haggling, my friend and I agreed to do the parasailing and flying fish for a total of RM240. Despite parasailing just 6 months ago, this experience yielded equal amounts of enjoyment, if not more since I opted to be soaked in water this time round. We dried ourselves on the flying fish, which was exhilarating with all that taking off and landing on the water surface.

We chose not to stay over at Manukan, but if you so decide to, Sutera Sanctuary Lodge manages the Manukan Island Resort at luxury rates (by Malaysian standards) of RM320 for a couple unit and RM380 for a family unit. On a separate note, it is rather worrying how Sutera Harbour Group seems to be monopolising the tourist attractions around Sabah – definitely unfavourable for tourists; backpackers and mature travellers alike.

Not to be forgotten is the transportation cost to the islands – I can’t be certain, but I recall a return trip to one island costing RM17 and to three islands (Mamutik, Manukan and Sapi), RM35. I was slightly taken aback when they charged RM7.20 as tax, per boat trip, but at the end of the day, it’s all worth it.

We spent half a day at Manukan and got back to our hotel at 4 pm, took a shower and shopped for the necessary snacks to be brought along on our climbing stint. Bearing in mind that we had an early start to the summit trail at Mesilau Resort, we decided to call it a day after packing our climbing bags.

The Land Below The Wind - Day 1

This recent visit to Sabah proved to me how this state alone is all-encompassing of everything Malaysia is proud of. Mountaineers set Mount Kinabalu as their challenge – what with the annual climbathon every Sept/Oct (for those interested: http://climbathon.sabahtourism.com/2011/), sunbathers have the islands just off Kota Kinabalu (the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park – Pulau Gaya, Pulau Manukan and Pulau Mamutik), sunset lovers can be entranced by the wide and open coastline of Simpang Mengayau (the tip of Borneo), divers quench their thirst for seawater with Pulau Sipadan and those aiming for something less nature-based have the cultural aspect of Sabah, with the ‘one village one trade’ campaign at villages located close to Kudat such as the honey-manufacturers Kg Gombizau and the longhouse builders Kg Bavanggazzo.

Upon arriving in Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA), the tour guide which settled the logistics of climbing Mount Kinabalu gave us a lift, directly to Kinabalu Daya Hotel, along Jalan Haji Saman. The hotel was, to my surprise, pleasant  - in many ways: room quality and service levels. The reception staff were very helpful and the rooms were equipped with all the necessities. More importantly, the hotel was at a fine location, for its price. It was located right next to Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee, a lonely planet recommendation restaurant serving local stir-fry dishes and lovely noodles, especially their Hokkien Mee and Singaporean Fried Vermicelli. However, unless you show up early or late for mealtimes, you will definitely be made to wait for a table (what I had to do for three consecutive nights), but it’s worth it. If you are a fan of bah kut teh, a dish of pork ribs and in some cases, other internal organs simmered in a complex broth of herbs, just amble by to the shop lot adjacent to Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee for some homemade Teocheow fishballs in lovely bah kut teh soup, and of course, for their bah kut teh as well.

We decided for the first day to be fairly relaxed as we arrived only at noon. After leaving our backpacks at the hotel, I insisted on having my favourite Mongolian chicken rice at Kompleks Sinsuran just 10 minutes away from the hotel. They just serve the most tender steamed chicken in lovely, thick gravy, and their rice is what a friend of mine would describe as orgasmic. Quite different from what we have in Peninsula Malaysia where the chicken is usually coated in more dilute, oily and salty sauce. My friend and I went on to set a target for every city – that is to find an optimum viewpoint. And so we set off from the restaurant and made our way to the Signal Hill Observation Pavillion. We made a slight detour from the directions to find four elderly Chinese men enjoying a relaxed meet-up on a swing, overlooking banana and palm trees with the mountain ranges dotted in the background. We then walked for another 5 minutes before arriving at our destination. To reward ourselves for the effort and for braving the mosquito bites, we decided to do some photography:

That’s the view of Kota Kinabalu ‘skyscrapers’ for you

Being stubborn and hopeful for better views, especially of the coastline and the three islands (of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park),  we walked further uphill only to find a condominium overlooking the ideal view we were wishing for – so, we trespassed the area and headed to the strategically-located verandah.

We descended for some drinks before watching sunset along the waterfront. Disappointed by a lacklustre sunset, we decided to watch Transformers in 3D at the newly-opened shopping mall just down the street and headed back to the hotel when the movie ended.

The Beginning

It all began when a close friend of mine from County Tyrone, Northern Ireland decided to travel thousands of miles to the Orient and assigned me the role of unofficial trip organiser. Like any other task, getting started was a challenge. I suggested a total of 5 weeks would suffice to wet his traveling taste buds and in this period, we would cover North Borneo, Thailand, China and Taiwan (in chronological order). As expected, this required extensive planning, considering the fact that we were traveling independent of profit-seeking tour guides.

Seeking Cheap Long-Haul Flights

The acclaimed World’s Best Low-Cost Airlines, Air Asia (www.airasia.com) offers cheap direct flights from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Low-Cost Carrier Terminal, LCCT) to Stansted London, although this is highly dependent on how in advance you obtain your tickets (I heard news that Air Asia X flights from KL-London will land at Gatwick Airport, effective 24th October 2011). If you are certain of your journey, it’s in your favour to purchase these tickets 6 months before your intended traveling period as ticket prices can go as low as 400 pounds. However, do take note that ticket prices can sky-rocket to as high as 700 pounds if you obtain them at the eleventh hour.

If DVT concerns you, I suggest transit flights with Emirates or Qatar Airways – Friends of mine have gotten tickets for Emirates for as low as 375 pounds (all inclusive), of course with some serious dedication. Also, Emirates includes complimentary buffet meals for transit periods exceeding 4 hours (don’t expect too much of its quality, though)!

www.kayak.com provides good comparisons for prices between a range of airlines.

There are many other gateways to Asia such as Hong Kong (Cathay Pacific), Bangkok (Thai Airways) and Singapore (Singapore Airlines), although these flights are usually more costly, as you’d expect of mainstream airlines. Nevertheless, there are cheap inter-Asia budget airlines serving these airports to China, India, Indonesia, the Philippines, Malaysia and Australia. These include Tiger Airways, Jetstar Airways, Silk Air, Firefly, Kingfisher and Mihin Lanka (the latter two primarily serve South Asia). This website: http://www.attitudetravel.com/lowcostairlines/asia/index/ provides a summary of the available budget airlines in Asia and its connections.

Stepping Foot on Malaysian (or Asian, in his case) Soil

For the first time ever, he has traveled beyond the boundaries of the European Union into the hustle-bustle, vibrant, organised chaos of Asia. One has to admit it is rather daunting to first arrive in foreign land and be frightened by its mannerism, alien systems and worst of all, TRAFFIC. Hence, I recommended the ERL (despite its connection with YTL Corporation, yes), just for trauma-minimalisation sake. RM35 for the convenience and comfort really isn’t too much to fork out, considering the exchange rate and the fact that it’s an airport transit.

As I was scheduled to arrive 11 hours after he did, my friend decided to make a trip out to the Twin Towers to first meet my mum, and then to explore the superlative in its entirety. I am yet to hear his review of the 88-floor building thus I shall not comment. More importantly, upon arrival, my family and I, with our distinguished guest headed to House of Tang, a Chinese restaurant clustered with other international eateries at One Bangsar. All dishes we have ordered here have been of tiptop quality, but I especially enjoy their lovely ‘drunken chicken’ with yellow wine. The waitresses pointed out that the restaurant manager personally selects yellow wine from Shaoxing and travels exclusively to that region of the Zhejiang province for this.

The Chinese cooking method is quite different from that of the North American beer-can chicken. Unlike the Americans that barbecue or grill an upright chicken with a half-full can of beer, the Chinese soak steamed chicken in a mixture of yellow glutinous rice wine, white rice wine and other herbs such as ‘dong guai’, wolfberries and red dates for two whole days. Although usually prepared for women in confinement, I’m dubious of its medicinal value.

It really is a pity that the owner has decided to end his food chain business. Such talented chefs put to waste. And such lovely waiters/waitresses with burning desires to master their spoken English, left jobless. Oh well, at least we had the privilege to show our appreciation. First on the list, Sabah! =)